Monday, August 31, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Men's Fashions by Francesco


Phoenicians: the People of Purple

Posted: 30 Aug 2009 08:01 AM PDT

The New York Times has reported that 1 in 17 men living today on the coasts of North Africa and southern Europe have a direct, male-line Phoenician ancestor.

Phoenician expert Salim George Khalaf, with whom I have recently become acquainted, is one such descendant.

But who were they?

The Phoenicians were great seafarers—an ancient maritime power—and the direct forefathers of modern-day Lebanon.

Experts like Sanford Holst conclude that the Phoenicians emerged from the Canaanite peoples of the Levant, forming their society about 3200 BC in Byblos (present-day Jbeil, Lebanon).

For millennia, the Phoenicians sailed throughout the Mediterranean, not as invaders but as peaceful traders.

About 1100 BC, they began setting up colonies along the coasts and on islands like Sicily, Sardinia, Ischia, and Mallorca. Their most illustrious colony, however, was undoubtedly Carthage. But Sardinia was attractive to the Phoenicians for the extraction of metals and ores.

In the 8th century BC, the Phoenicians founded the Sardinian colonies of Nora, Karalis (Cagliari), Sulci, and Tharros. Situated on the Bay of Oristano, Tharros is now an open-air museum of ongoing excavation with one section submerged under the sea.

While historians often state that the foundations of Western Society rest on the ancient pillars of Rome and Greece, many have sadly overlooked the sturdy pillar of the ancient Phoenicians.

Phoenician culture profoundly impacted the Mediterranean in the areas of trade, religion, language, and the alphabet, which is the ancestor of most modern alphabets today!

Forerunners to a global economy, the intercultural spirit, and the concept of networking, the Phoenicians traded in metals, glass, wood, spices, and jewels. They even perfected the art of dog breeding. Their main industry, however, was textiles.

Sometimes referred to as the "purple people," the Phoenicians extracted a purple dye from the shells of sea snails called Murex. So notable were the Phoenicians for this Tyrian purple powder that they obtained their name from the ancient Greek word for purple—phoinikois.

Typically, Phoenician men wore a type of skirt that extended from the waist to the knees, closely resembling the Egyptian shenti. The upper body was clothed in a close-fitting tunic with elboe-length sleeves. At times, a full-body robe with folds or pleats was worn underneath.

Gracefully draped in folds, mantles could be thrown over one shoulder, reaching as far as the knee. Borders of garments for the upper class were often embroidered.

Phoenician men sported large pendants, armlets, bracelets, and signet rings, as well as ornamental metalic collars similar to the Egyptians. Preferring long curly hair and beards with no mustaches, the men sported cone-shaped caps.

Photo top right, Phoenician dress, Public Domain.
Photo bottom left, Phoenician dress, Copyright Phoenica.org.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Every artist was first an amateur - Ralph Emerson

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Article Joke of the Week

Little Johnny's teacher decided that the children should learn about mime, so she had each of them develop a speech, which was to be relayed by using motion only. When Little Johnny's turn came, he stood up in front of the class:

"Ladies (grabbing chest) and gentlemen (grabbing crotch)..." Little Johnny's teacher wasn't amused, so she sent him to the Principal's office. Johnny explained what happened, so the sympathetic Principal told him to revise his speech as follows:

"Ladies (motioning woman's curves) and gentlemen (making a muscle with his arm)..."

Little Johnny went back to class and proceeded to give his speech again: "Ladies (motioning woman's curves) and gentlemen (making a muscle with his arm), it gives me great pleasure (whacking-off motion)..."

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If there is one thing that Friday's anti-smacking referendum will never influence it is those morons who believe that a corrective smack on a child's bottom constitutes child abuse. More »

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Something that men need to understand is shyness is not a personality trait it is the withholding of a personality. More »

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Men's Fashions by Francesco

Men's Fashions by Francesco


Bagella: Preserving Traditional Menswear in Sardinia

Posted: 29 Aug 2009 05:32 AM PDT

In my previous article, I summarized the history of Sardinia, briefly describing the evolution of traditional Sardinian menswear, which emerged in the 17th and 18th centuries when special laws that had connected social class to certain garments were abolished.

These legal changes opened the doors to new fabrics from Catalonia (Spain) and other Mediterranean influences, which affected colors and styles. Alas, the so-called "Ethnic Suit" was born, which is still worn by politicians and artists today.

Fabrics usually consist of corduroy and moleskin. The color palette comprises dark brown, black, green, and grey. Jackets are single-breasted with 2 or 3 buttons, 4 appliqued pockets, and a half belt in the back.

Shirts are white and made of cotton or linen with a small collar, sometimes with pleating in the front. Formerly riding pants, trousers tend to narrow at the bottom so that they may be tucked into leather boots. Pockets feature embroidered borders.

In 1932, Nino Bagella opened a traditional Sardinian clothing store on the Vittorio Emanuele boulevard. The atelier is now one of the oldest shops in Sassari (Tàthari in Sardinian), the second largest city in northwest Sardinia, which is surrounded by olive trees, oaks, and maquis shrubs like sage.

Carrying on the tradition, Nino's son, Rinaldo, continues to preserve the poised ruggedness of original Sardinian styles, which are crafted by local artisans.

Photos Copyright Bagella.
Slideshow Copyright
Bagella.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Men's Fashions by Francesco


Timeline: Sardinia's History in a Nutshell

Posted: 28 Aug 2009 06:22 AM PDT

Here is a brief timeline of the history, of Sardinia:

3,500-1,500 BC Nuraghic civilization

1,000-500 BC Phoenician colonies

500-238 BC Carthaginian colonies

238 BC-456 AD Roman occupation

456-534 AD Vandal raids

534-710 AD Byzantine rule

710-1354 Sardinian self-rule

1354-1720 Catalan (Spanish) rule

1720 Sardinia passes to Piedmont's Savoy Kingdom

1814 The Kingdom of Sardinia united with the Kingdom of Liguria

1861 Victor Emmanuel II , the first King of Italy.

Map Copyleft at Wikipedia.

Introduction to Sardinia & Traditional Sardinian Menswear

Posted: 28 Aug 2009 06:26 AM PDT

Sardinia—the second largest island in the Mediterranean—has been inhabited since the 6th millennium BC, the first settlers most likely arriving from the Italian peninsula.

Over time, the inhabitants began staking out tribal territories, which they guarded with cone-shaped, stone towers called nuraghi. It is estimated that over 8,000 of the preexisting 30,000 nuraghi stand today.

The next wave of arrivals washed upon Sardinia's shores in about 1000 BC with the Phoenicians—the forefathers of the Lebanese—who set up colonies throughout the island. By 509 BC, the Phoenicians had made considerable inroads into the island, prompting the local Sardinians to summon the armies of Carthage, who, after defeating the Phoenicians decided to stay.

The Carthaginians cohabited with the native islanders until 238 BC when they were defeated and ousted by the Romans in what is called the First Punic War. (Punic is merely the Latin name for Phoenician, since the Carthaginians were originally Phoenicians.) Although resisted by the Sardinians, Rome's domination lasted 694 years, until 456 AD, when the island was literally vandalized—by the Vandals!

Their song "Nowhere to Run" would have been appropriate, but the Vandals had nothing to do with Martha and the Vandellas. The Vandals were an Eastern Germanic tribe that lived all throughout Europe. They conquered North Africa as a launching point to raid, or vandalize, the Mediterranean islands and coastlands.

But the vandalism did not last long and Sardinia was liberated in 534 AD by the Byzantines, who spread Christianity to the island. The tranquility of Byzantium rule, however, was also short lived by the incursions of the Barbary pirates, known also as Corsairs and Saracens, who assailed the island in 710 AD.

For several centuries, the Sardinians succeeded in defending themselves; but the island was soon thrown into turmoil in the 13th century upon the contentions of two maritime powers on the Italian peninsula— the Republic of Genoa and the Republic of Pisa, the latter of which succeeded to colonize Sardinia.

Remember—until 1861, Italy had never existed as a nation but rather the peninsula was always under the domination of indigenous and foreign powers.

Eventually, and with the help of the pope, Sardinia fell to the House of Aragon in 1354 and remained a Catalan possession (and later Spanish) until it was handed over to Piedmont's House of Savoy, which in 1861 established the Kingdom of Italy, crowning Vittorio Emanuele II the first king of Italy.

"Why the history?" you ask. Like most societies, traditional Sardinian dress is a kaleidoscope of the successive cultures that dominated the island over the millenia, which is also expressed in the music, dance, arts and crafts, cuisine, and traditions of the people. (See timeline.)

So many times we scratch our heads in amazement at how a designer came up with a certain design. Often, however, we can find the answer in history. See my editorial, Fashion in a Box? Time to Open the Lid.

Although there exists great variation throughout the island, Sardinian men (which are called Sardinians and not sardines!) traditionally wore a black kilt-like skirt that was gathered at the waste with a large leather belt, white loose-fitting pants that were tucked into leather boots, a dark-colored jacket, and a white shirt with puffy sleeves—all topped off with a floppy cone-shaped hat.

The look eventually evolved into a contemporary silhouette of rugged elegance, which has been preserved by the Bagella family, whom we will discuss in the next article.

Photo top left Nuraghe by Fawcett5 Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Photo bottom right traditional Dress Copyright Bagella.
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