Men's Fashions by Francesco

Posted: 20 Aug 2009 08:38 AM PDT

"AVOID: to make a conscious decision to stay away from unwanted people, things, and events."

This is how the two designers, Inokawa and Kido, define their label, which they launched in 2005 with the goal of portraying "the true nature of clothing with no preconceptions of educational or professional backgrounds, or even the brand name itself."

Since its inception, the label has produced collections according to thematic concepts like "Youth Glory Days" 1986-89, "New Youth Liberal Attitudes," and "Squat Life," each of which reject passivity and reflect an aggressive approach to men's fashion and design.

For the 2009 a/w collection, however, Inokawa and Kido have decided not to allocate a specific theme. Instead, the collection entitled「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」emphasizes detail to new weave and unique coloring, reiterating the original concept that :AVOID is to be enjoyed with no preconceptions.

Designer Inokawa is originally from Niigata, Japan, where he remembers heavy snowfalls in the winter; Kido was born and raised in Tokyo.

I am very pleased to have had the opportunity to interview both designers with the assistance of PR assistant, Kimihiro Higuchi, of Adonust Showroom.

It is a pleasure to meet you both… So tell me, Inokawa, when did you begin designing?
I was 16 years old when I became interested in becoming a designer.

And what led you, Kido, into fashion design?
I began paying attention to fashion when I was 10 years old and, until I was around 18 years old, my primary interests were vintage items. I hoped that, someday, I could have my own vintage store. From there I attended a designers' college, where through interaction with my classmates I became more interested in designer brands. Post graduation, I worked at a store while working on my own designs.

Inokawa, how does vintage play into your collections?
Our designs have always been influenced from my enthusiasm for vintage items and their construction methods, details, and components, as well as the way they aged over time and wear.

Kido, what is the driving factor behind your designs each season?
Generally speaking, we create men's clothing, so I like to think up items that can be worn on a daily basis. This design concept can be seen continuously from season to season. As previously mentioned, our designs are heavily influenced by special construction methods and their details, as well as different color palettes, varieties of material, photography, different subcultures, and old record jackets. Our interpretations of all these things give birth to new designs. Recently we have used particular interest in different shades of gray and blue.

How about trends and other influences from pop culture?
We tend to not have any interest in trends. Until now we have been influenced by hardcore punk music and skateboarding, and we continue to find inspiration in these things.

I'm very interested in the men's fashion scene in Japan…
Inokawa: I tend to think that many of the designs I see in Japan are recreations of old items using similar coloring and details. It is hard to find things with their own unique identities.

Kido: I believe it could be at a point that could be thought of as the beginning of the end. To me, fashion is an expression of individuality: to be different from your peers and to be able to feel good about oneself, as a result. However, the current scene lacks energy, as most people are consuming the same types of items, rooted in the desire to fit in. I feel that many are worried too much about not fitting in or being accepted.

So, in what way does :AVOID play a role in this situation?
If there were 100 people, what we do may not be understood or accepted by everybody, but I feel there is no meaning in designing if we are to make the same things as others. As we previously touched upon, fashion to us is an expression of individuality. We would like to make things that people can appreciate or be satisfied with, even if it only applies to a small number of people. We would also like to be able to pass this feeling of fashion consciousness down to the next generation.

How would you sum up this fashion consciousness in terms of your specific style or look?
All our designs come together through the use of uniquely fine colors distinct to our brand and, in the less visible sense, solid construction, along with the use of better materials and components. We hope to make things that can be perceived differently and be appreciated by peers in our industry.

Thank you Inokawa and Kido for your time!

Photo right Inokawa Copyright :AVOID.
Photo left Kido Copyright :AVOID.
Slideshow 2009 a/w collection「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」Copyright :AVOID.