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Sunday, August 23, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Lenzing Color Trends: Sustainable Future

Posted: 22 Aug 2009 11:51 AM PDT

The Lenzing Group is an international fiber producing company with its headquarters in Lenzing, Austria. The following report is the Lenzing color trend analysis for autumn/winter 2010/11:

Sustainable Future
The crucial need of co-existing between nature and urban landscapes is reflected in the color pallets and the stories from where they come: urban concrete and formal darks meet nature's mid-tones and bright shades.

Eco-fashion, lo-fi, laboratory-grown fabrics, food fashion, fusing product and garment, beetroot-dying, victimless leather, bone ivory, up-cycling and all the other experiments concentrating on environment issues, are so important; some ideas will eventually end up as valid solutions to problems we fight with, some are indispensable because of the discussion they raise.

Solutions are imperative to solve the paradox of the fashion industry obsessed by the nonstop change and the vital demand of sustainability.

The focus has moved from pure aspect to content, with everything this brings along in terms of questions.

Finishing and added functions are areas still to be explored and bringing in new, complex and fascinating elements. Craft techniques are reinterpreted and completed by using the newest technology.

Warmth, comfort, caring, reassuring, thoughtfulness are terminologies to have in mind when developing fabrics for the autumn and winter of 2010/11.

Photo, text, and slideshow published with permission.

Copyrights: Publisher Lenzing AG, Illustrations MMgroup.

The Shockheaded Peter Project by Christian Westphal

Posted: 22 Aug 2009 09:42 AM PDT

Heinrich Hoffmann (1809-1894) was a German physician and psychiatrist who wrote poetry and satirical comedy under nearly eight pen names.

His most memorable work was an illustrated collection of children's verses entitled Der Struwwelpeter—that is, Shockheaded Peter, which can also translate as Slovenly Peter.

Danish designer Christian Westphal writes how he "looked at the old book from 1844," which drew him into the world of "boogiemen, monsters, and angry adults."

As he compared the images with ones similar to the Victorian world of theatrical illusion, Christian was inspired to create a spring/summer 2010 that would be depicted by "decadent and unusual elegance."

The Shockheaded Peter Project Collection is designed to play on our fears of every creak in the night. Like the trap doors and secret entrances in the imaginative mind of a little child, the collection contains several levels of multi-dimensional surprises.

Androgynous in direction, crisp in color, poetic in construction, and geometric in cuts—the collection modernizes our concept of menswear with luxurious fabrics that give men a look, which is strong enough to conquer the biggest of any fear.

The collection will be presented by Christian at the Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo this October.

Photo top left s/s 2010 collection Copyright Christian Westphal.
Slideshow s/s 2010 collection Copyright Christian Westphal.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Catalan Designer Georgina Vendrell

Posted: 21 Aug 2009 09:37 AM PDT

Most people associate the word "Catalan" with a language that is spoken in several areas of Spain, including the Balearic Islands, Catalonia, Valencia, and Aragon, which is an accurate association.

But the term embodies so much more than language, embracing a culture, history, geographical area, and people. For this reason, the Catalan language is also spoken in Andorra, Alghero (Sardinia, Italy), and parts of southern France.

Catalonia, or Catalunya, enjoys a common history with many Mediterranean islands for two reasons: (1) they share the same line of settlers (i.e., the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, North Africans, etc.) and (2) Catalonia settled many of the islands.

Once a cohesive culture had been formed, the Catalan people united with Aragon and emerged a great maritime power. As an important player in the Kingdom of Aragon, together they ruled Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, and the southern half of Italy for centuries, exporting the Catalan culture, cuisine, language, and costume!

So influential was this kingdom that it rears its head in our pop culture with video games like Age of Empires 2: the Conquerors and Europa Universalis, which reenact legends in playable history! What a legacy! And all that, because of a marriage!

Heir to all this rich history, Catalan designer Georgina Vendrell was born1983 in Barcelona. After graduating from the Institut català de la moda, Georgina was chosen by an international jury to present her a/w 2009 collection at 080 Barcelona Fashion.

The collection is entitled "51" in reference to the number of total sun-less days during the bitter cold winters of Finland.

Drawing from a dark palette, Georgina reaches for a simple, sporty look that combines wintry functionality with innovative styles and hints to her nation's past.

Stay tuned for more on Georgina Vendrell and the styles of the Mediterranean! I have a surprise in store for you, which I will unveil next week!

Photo a/w 2009 collection Copyright Georgina Vendrell.
Slideshow a/w 2009 collection Copyright Georgina Vendrell.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Avoiding Preconceptions with :AVOID

Posted: 20 Aug 2009 08:38 AM PDT

"AVOID: to make a conscious decision to stay away from unwanted people, things, and events."

This is how the two designers, Inokawa and Kido, define their label, which they launched in 2005 with the goal of portraying "the true nature of clothing with no preconceptions of educational or professional backgrounds, or even the brand name itself."

Since its inception, the label has produced collections according to thematic concepts like "Youth Glory Days" 1986-89, "New Youth Liberal Attitudes," and "Squat Life," each of which reject passivity and reflect an aggressive approach to men's fashion and design.

For the 2009 a/w collection, however, Inokawa and Kido have decided not to allocate a specific theme. Instead, the collection entitled「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」emphasizes detail to new weave and unique coloring, reiterating the original concept that :AVOID is to be enjoyed with no preconceptions.

Designer Inokawa is originally from Niigata, Japan, where he remembers heavy snowfalls in the winter; Kido was born and raised in Tokyo.

I am very pleased to have had the opportunity to interview both designers with the assistance of PR assistant, Kimihiro Higuchi, of Adonust Showroom.

It is a pleasure to meet you both… So tell me, Inokawa, when did you begin designing?
I was 16 years old when I became interested in becoming a designer.

And what led you, Kido, into fashion design?
I began paying attention to fashion when I was 10 years old and, until I was around 18 years old, my primary interests were vintage items. I hoped that, someday, I could have my own vintage store. From there I attended a designers' college, where through interaction with my classmates I became more interested in designer brands. Post graduation, I worked at a store while working on my own designs.

Inokawa, how does vintage play into your collections?
Our designs have always been influenced from my enthusiasm for vintage items and their construction methods, details, and components, as well as the way they aged over time and wear.

Kido, what is the driving factor behind your designs each season?
Generally speaking, we create men's clothing, so I like to think up items that can be worn on a daily basis. This design concept can be seen continuously from season to season. As previously mentioned, our designs are heavily influenced by special construction methods and their details, as well as different color palettes, varieties of material, photography, different subcultures, and old record jackets. Our interpretations of all these things give birth to new designs. Recently we have used particular interest in different shades of gray and blue.

How about trends and other influences from pop culture?
We tend to not have any interest in trends. Until now we have been influenced by hardcore punk music and skateboarding, and we continue to find inspiration in these things.

I'm very interested in the men's fashion scene in Japan…
Inokawa: I tend to think that many of the designs I see in Japan are recreations of old items using similar coloring and details. It is hard to find things with their own unique identities.

Kido: I believe it could be at a point that could be thought of as the beginning of the end. To me, fashion is an expression of individuality: to be different from your peers and to be able to feel good about oneself, as a result. However, the current scene lacks energy, as most people are consuming the same types of items, rooted in the desire to fit in. I feel that many are worried too much about not fitting in or being accepted.

So, in what way does :AVOID play a role in this situation?
If there were 100 people, what we do may not be understood or accepted by everybody, but I feel there is no meaning in designing if we are to make the same things as others. As we previously touched upon, fashion to us is an expression of individuality. We would like to make things that people can appreciate or be satisfied with, even if it only applies to a small number of people. We would also like to be able to pass this feeling of fashion consciousness down to the next generation.

How would you sum up this fashion consciousness in terms of your specific style or look?
All our designs come together through the use of uniquely fine colors distinct to our brand and, in the less visible sense, solid construction, along with the use of better materials and components. We hope to make things that can be perceived differently and be appreciated by peers in our industry.

Thank you Inokawa and Kido for your time!

Photo right Inokawa Copyright :AVOID.
Photo left Kido Copyright :AVOID.
Slideshow 2009 a/w collection「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」Copyright :AVOID.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Men's Fashions by Francesco

Fractal Geometry & Menswear

Posted: 19 Aug 2009 08:50 AM PDT

"Oh, no! Not geometry," you say! But hang on, this fractal stuff can really be fun!

I saw a fascinating documentary on TV last night, so I thought to share the highlights with you.

We owe the term fractal to Benoît Mandelbrot—a Jewish Lithuanian who was born in Warsaw but fled from the Nazis to France with his family in 1936.

Although the concept of fractals dates back to the 17th-century German mathematician, Gottfried Leibniz, there was no visual way to explore them in depth until the computer and, of course, Benoît's ingenuity.

Fractals are shapes outside the regular circles, triangles, rectangles, and squares of traditional geometry, encompassing those like clouds, mountains, lightening, broccoli, coastlines, and veins, all of which can be produced through recursive algorithms.

The photos posted in this article have emerged out of the equation zn+1 = zn2 + c (the Mandelbrot set). The photo to the left is a closeup of the photo at top right.

Born 1954 in Maryland, USA, and educated at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, Jhane Barnes has diverged from tradition of artistic drawing by incorporating fractals and computer algorithms into her menswear since 1978.

Wrongly labeled a fashion "geek," this fashion "genius" has produced limited editions of designs that never repeat twice.

The Jhane Barnes 2009 a/w collection brilliantly features a revolutionary new line of engineered, digital prints with fancy woven techniques and an unlimited color palette, which uses less water—hence making the collection environmentally sensitive.

So, if you bombed out of high school geometry or you just made it through by the skin of your teeth, now you have a second chance! And you can wear it too!

Photo top right Mandelbrot Set by Wolfgangbeyer, Copyleft at Wikipedia.
Photo middle left closeup of Mandelbrot Set by Wolfgangbeyer, Copyleft at Wikipedia.
Slideshow Copyright Jhane Barnes.